Diyarbakir |
| 25 May 1999. Tensions were still high, even though an armistice and truce were supposed to be in effect with the Kurdish insurgents in the PKK. So along the road we'd pass oxcarts and armored personnel carriers. Checkpoints, with machine guns were spaced along the road, but we, in our tourist van had no trouble; locals though might be delayed for hours. We dropped into a deep rocky canyon, with more greenery than we've seen for a few days. But the narrow road and military presence doesn't allow for easy stops. I did get out to take pictures of the Malabodi Koprusu, an old Ottoman stone bridge with a 100 foot span. At the next checkpoint, we were met by a military jeep just setting out to find us - they had expected us 10 minutes earlier. Arriving at Diyarbakir, we discovered a new defense, none of its medieval attackers had to face. A ring of ugly tenements block access to good views of the city walls. Most of the black basalt walls are in good condition. Its a mix of Byzantine rounded barbicans with later accretions over the centuries. We mounted the wall at the south gate for good views in both directions. The local museum had good coverage of the neighboring Neolithic sites, Cayuna from 8-6000 BCE and Uctepe from from 5000 BCE. Then a quick stop at Ulu Cami, which despite its name is a fairly recent restoration of an 11th century mosque. It resembles the far larger Omayyad Mosque of Damascus from around the same time. Outside, old men sit drinking tea around a central oven. A group of younger men with large scythes lounge nearby, but assume heroic poses when they see our cameras. |
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