Journal, 27 May, 2002:We'd arranged for a local guide, but he never showed up, so we stopped in the village and soon had 4, then 5 then 6 older men discussing what we might do. Some said it couldnt be done at all, others that someone had told them it was possible. Meanwhile, several old women placed themselves strategically on porches and park seats so that they could observe from a distance. Finally, we found a young man, Mustafa, and left, giving several of the old men some of our empty 5 L water bottles and promises to send pictures. (after we'd been taking pictures candidly for awhile, they still wanted to pose for several more.)
Walked out from village about 1-2 km, slightly rising to get over the hill leading down to the coast. Then steeply down for about 1 ½ hrs, to arrive at Aperlae. Passed ubiquitous maquis, olive, and now tamarind trees (keci boynuzu - 'goat horns'). At a well we met some tea pickers coming back uphill with a load of tea on their donkey. A few fossils among the limestone fragments and rocks lining the trail. Reddish clay dirt, easier going than yesterday, to get to Aperlae. Interesting small town, no real excavations done, but can make out the city walls, a basilica, and a series of houses with lots of potsherds, sprawling down the hill to the bay. At the other end of town, rock steps lead past more Roman tombs, and some Lycian ones. (Guidebook said 2 ½ hrs to this point). About noon, started across the small isthmus, then a gradual uphill climb with great views of the protected bay, with several gulets anchored. Easy trail, but very hot. Trudged steady, but slowly, now with views of the minaret of Ucagiz (Kekove) tempting us forward. Reached the town about 3:30. Elapsed time 5 ½ hrs including lots of stops on the traverse. Guidebook allows 6 ¼ hrs.
Left town, then stopped on a hill at an abandoned tea house where Lutfi and Mustafa prepared a lunch of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, grilled peppers and excellent lamb chops. Back in the bus, and on to Myra, reaching it just before the gates closed. They're restoring the theatre so dont allow us to climb up near the tombs! But we can go into the theatre itself.
Tea house rest area
Ibrahim, Suleyman, Lutfi Kiliclar
Turtles Kiliclar
Watchtower on hill Aperlae
Roman cisterns Aperlae
Old city walls Aperlae
Gulet Aperlae
Sarcophagus Aperlae
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Hiking Aperlae
Stone steps
Town Ucagiz
Lycian Way sign Ucagiz
Rock tombs Myra
Rock tombs Myra
Carved masks theatre Myra
Details theatre Myra
Details theatre Myra
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