[11/9/2003 journal] 4:30 PM Reading, I heard a yell, looked up to see a white sedan in our lane, heading right at us. Riyas swerved onto the dirt shoulder and white's right bumper raked our side starting just behind driver's door, where Audrey was sitting. Everyone bounced but no injuries. Other driver had bloody head Probably been drinking. After establishing no one was badly hurt, we just took off. A few km further police pull us over for inspection and accompanied us back to the crash site. 6:00 PM Still waiting for the inspection that was supposed to happen in 10-15 minutes. We drove back to another police station and have been sitting here since watching camels walk home in the setting sun. Still about 3 hrs drive to Agra. Our drivers were ROR to let them take us to Agra, then return early tomorrow morning. Aftermath:– Shakul said net result when the drivers returned would be more delay, with a bribe paid eventually.

[11/13/2003 journal] 11 am light rain, passed long line of lorries, over 1 km long, waiting to load rice and Pepsi; some may still be there tomorrow. Started out on good 4 lane divided highway, but now either torn up 4 lane or potholed 2 lane; much less use of horn here in the south though. 12:00 PM Heavy rain, not much traffic but slower going. large construction projects to bring water 300 km to Chennai

[11/14/2003 journal] 5:25PM "Monsoon showers - trucks throw wakes of ruddy water while lightning breaks from a dark slate sky. Vibrant colors -red clay, banana deep green, brilliant rice paddies. As we stream thru town, people under palm thatch roofs waiting for letup. Bicycle loaded with bright colored water pots skims thru puddles